A refrigerator is bought by its interior capacity and sold on its finish, and neither of those tells you whether it will make the turn at the top of your stairs. Fifteen minutes with a tape measure before ordering prevents nearly every delivery-day problem.
Measure the route, not just the space
Measure the appliance's crated dimensions
Not the finished dimensions. Ask for the shipping size — it is typically two to four inches larger in each direction.
Walk the path backwards from the final position
Doorway to hallway to staircase to entry door. Measure the narrowest point of each, including door thickness with the door open, and any handrail or radiator that projects.
Measure diagonals at turns
A tight landing is a diagonal problem, not a width problem. Measure corner to corner across the turn and compare with the appliance's depth.
Check the door swing at the destination
A French-door refrigerator needs clearance for both doors to open past 90° so the drawers slide out. An adjacent wall can make a nominally fitting fridge unusable.
Check the counter depth and any overhang
"Counter-depth" refers to the cabinet box, not the countertop. Handles and doors project beyond it by design.
Write it all down with a sketch
And keep it on your phone when you order.
Doors come off
Most refrigerator doors can be removed to gain two to three inches, and most entry doors can be lifted off their hinges for the same reason. If the route is close, say so when booking — many crews will do it, but only if it has been agreed in advance.
Clearances that manufacturers require
| Appliance | Typical clearance requirement | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 1 in. at the rear, ⅛ in. at each side, 1 in. above | Condenser airflow; too tight and it runs constantly |
| Freestanding range | 30 in. from cooktop to unprotected cabinet above | Fire clearance; specified by the manufacturer and by code |
| Over-the-range microwave | Typically 30 in. from cooktop to the underside | Heat and usability |
| Dishwasher | 24 in. wide rough opening, 34 in. minimum height | Standard cabinet bay; check older kitchens |
| Washer / dryer | 1 in. at sides, 4–6 in. behind for hoses and venting | Vibration and duct radius |
| Gas dryer | Rigid or semi-rigid vent, max total run per manual | Every elbow reduces the allowable length |
Always download the specific model's installation manual before ordering — every manufacturer publishes it as a PDF, and it contains the real numbers rather than the general ones above.
What the delivery crew will and won't do
Terms vary by retailer, but the pattern is consistent enough to plan around. Confirm each of these in writing when you order:
| Usually included | Usually extra or excluded |
|---|---|
| Delivery to the room of choice | Carrying up more than one flight of stairs |
| Unpacking and removing packaging | Disposing of old appliances not being replaced |
| Basic hook-up of a like-for-like appliance | Any new plumbing, gas line or electrical work |
| Haul-away of the replaced unit (often for a fee) | Moving furniture or removing doors |
| Levelling and a basic operational test | Cabinet modification, trim kits, cut-outs |
Gas connections are the important one. Many retailers will not connect gas appliances at all, and in a number of jurisdictions the work must be done by a licensed professional. Assume it is not included unless it is written on the order.
Old appliances
Refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners contain refrigerant that must be recovered by a certified technician before disposal — you cannot legally put one at the kerb in most places. Retailer haul-away, a utility recycling programme or a municipal appliance day are the routes. Many utilities pay a rebate for surrendering a working second fridge.
Preparing the day before
- Clear the path completely — rugs rolled up, furniture moved, pets shut away.
- Protect floors on the route with cardboard or hardboard, particularly on hardwood.
- Empty and defrost the old appliance; a wet freezer floor becomes your problem the moment it tips.
- Shut off the water supply to the old unit and confirm the valve actually closes. A seized valve behind a washing machine stops a delivery dead.
- Confirm the electrical supply matches: a standard 120 V outlet for most appliances, a dedicated 240 V circuit for electric ranges and dryers, and the correct plug configuration — three-prong and four-prong dryer cords are not interchangeable.
- Have the model's installation manual to hand.
Hook-ups: water, gas, drainage, power
- Refrigerator water line. Use a braided stainless line, not the old plastic tubing. Leave a service loop so the fridge can be pulled out without straining the connection.
- Dishwasher. Needs a hot water supply, a drain connection with a high loop or air gap to prevent backflow, and power. If you are replacing a faucet at the same time, our faucet guide covers the shut-off valve work underneath.
- Washing machine. Replace rubber fill hoses with braided stainless every time. Burst washer hoses are one of the most common causes of household water damage claims.
- Dryer venting. Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct only, as short and straight as possible. Plastic and foil flexible duct is a fire hazard and is prohibited by many codes.
- Range. Anti-tip bracket fitted, without exception. It is a required safety device, it ships with the appliance, and it takes four minutes.
Inspecting before you sign
- Look at every visible surface in good light before the crew leaves — dents and scratches are far easier to resolve at the door than the next day.
- Open and close every door and drawer; check the seals sit flat all round.
- Confirm it is level, front to back and side to side. An unlevel washer walks; an unlevel fridge seals badly and its doors swing open.
- Run a short operational test where possible — power on, water fill, a brief cycle.
- Check underneath and behind for leaks before pushing the appliance back into place.
- Note any damage on the delivery paperwork before signing, and photograph it.
Then keep the model and serial number, the receipt and the manual together. Two years later, when a part is needed, that folder is worth an hour of searching.
Frequently asked questions
What measurements do I need before buying an appliance?
The crated dimensions of the appliance, and the narrowest point of every doorway, hallway, staircase and turn on the route to its final position — including diagonals at corners. Then the finished opening, plus the manufacturer's required clearances.
Will the delivery team install my new range?
Usually they will connect a like-for-like electric range and fit the anti-tip bracket. Gas connections are frequently excluded and in many places must be made by a licensed professional. Confirm exactly what is included in writing when you order.
Can I throw away my old refrigerator?
Not at the kerb, in most places. Refrigerant must be recovered by a certified technician. Use retailer haul-away, a utility recycling programme or a municipal collection — and check whether your utility pays a rebate for a surrendered second fridge.
How much clearance does a refrigerator need?
Commonly about one inch at the rear and above and an eighth of an inch at each side, but the figure is model-specific. Download the installation manual for your exact model — too little clearance makes the compressor run far longer than its energy rating assumes.
